Nonlinear evolution of surface gravity waves over an uneven bottom
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Nonlinear evolution of surface gravity waves over highly variable depth.
New nonlinear evolution equations are derived that generalize those presented in a Letter by Matsuno [Phys. Rev. Lett. 69, 609 (1992)]] and a terrain-following Boussinesq system recently deduced by Nachbin [SIAM J Appl. Math. 63, 905 (2003)]]. The regime considers finite-amplitude surface gravity waves on a two-dimensional incompressible and inviscid fluid of, highly variable, finite depth. A F...
متن کاملEquations for bi-directional waves over an uneven bottom
This paper is centered at deriving and studying systems modeling bi-directional surface waves over an uneven or a moving bottom. Compared with the huge amount of work on model equations describing one-way propagation of water waves, much less attention has been given to Boussinesq systems describing two-way propagation of water waves, especially to the systems which are externally forced.
متن کاملScattering of surface waves over an uneven sea-bed
This work is concerned with the scattering of a train of progressive waves by a small undulation of the bottom of a laterally unbounded sea, using two-dimensional linear water wave theory. Assuming irrotational motion, a simplified perturbation analysis is employed to obtain the first-order corrections to the velocity potential by using the Green’s integral theorem in a suitable manner, and the...
متن کاملHigher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity 'waves
Bispectral and trispectral analyses are used to detect secondary and tertiary wave components resulting from nonlinear interactions among largeamplitude ocean surface gravity waves in 8and 13-m water depths. Bispectra of bottom-pressure measurements indicate forced secondary waves at frequencies 2fp about twice the primary power spectral peak frequency fp. However, the interpretation of the bis...
متن کاملNonlinear Dynamics of Hydrostatic Internal Gravity Waves
Stratified hydrostatic fluids have linear internal gravity waves with different phase speeds and vertical profiles. Here a simplified set of partial differential equations (PDE) is derived to represent the nonlinear dynamics of waves with different vertical profiles. The equations are derived by projecting the full nonlinear equations onto the vertical modes of two gravity waves, and the result...
متن کاملذخیره در منابع من
با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید
ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Fluid Mechanics
سال: 1993
ISSN: 0022-1120,1469-7645
DOI: 10.1017/s0022112093001107